Which Bass techniques for fishing plastics in the weeds?

My issue is that I want to expand into Largemouth fishing with jigs, Texas-rigged worms with bullet weights as examples. So far, all I end up doing is getting hung up. Is is that I should apply these techniques to different water or ...? I am not pitching or flipping right now (as I dont really know how to do that) but I am open to any technique that will make it so that I dont get hug up as often. I am fishing on a lake that has alot of coontail weeds and I am usually in 5-15ft. There are some shallow areas with sparse clumps of coontail as well some thin grass where it gets really shallow along with some lily pads. Any help on where/how I should be focusing my efforts would be appreciated.

Which Bass techniques for fishing plastics in the weeds?
Use heavy line preferably braid. Use a heavy action rod. I would a texas rig but peg off the sinker so it falls through the weeds easier. Use a 2/0 or 3/0 worm hook. You may even want to superglue your knot so it doesn't slip. Try flipping into the small pockets of the weeds. Most of the time this is an ambush point for a bass any way. I would try a smaller worm like a 5 or 7 inch first. before throwing a 10 inch or lager worm also. I would also try a small profile bait because they fall extremely easy through the weeds. Try a power craw or a small creature bait. I hope this helps you out.
Reply:dude, buy "zoom superflukes", and then rig them on a 4/0 weighted hook. the ones made by falcon are good. To rig them , push the barb thru the tip of the nose of the fluke, and out the bottom (where the jaw would be) about 1/4 of an inch.

Then pull the hook all the way till the eye of the hook is just barely hanging out of the nose of the fluke. now spin the hook 180 degrees so that the barb is now pointed up.

At this point if you lay the hook flat against the body of the fluke you will see that you need to scrunch up the fluke ( hook it further back) to hook it right so that the fluke hangs straight and true on your hook. This takes some practice. If it doesnt hang straight it wil spin thru the water with a twisting motion.

you will only catch stupid bass (young bass) doing it that way.

Make sure that you have the barb exit on top of the fluke, and then bury the barb back into the flukeback towards the front.

If you rig it this way you can throw it into any weed, milfoil, snotgrass, or tree, and more than likely get it back. I just give it little twitches, but try whatever you like. I'd start with a superfluke in the watermelon green color. Throw it in tight to cover, and get ready.

hope it helps, Ray
Reply:Use a good back boned heavy duty 8 foot rod - with 25 lb test - this is so you can rip right throught the weeds. THen when rigging - use the ptoper hook, proper size and set it up weedless - then place a tiny styrofoam bead over the tip of the hook. Pitch it in, let it sink then snap up -if nothing there do it again - if hung up - just rip it!!



Good luck and tite lines - from the Bare
Reply:Use a 7.5 ft heavy action bait casting outfit…Spooled with 20lbs test. Use plastic worms, tubes, crawfish or any other plastic that has a very slim profile. Most of these plastics should be in the 6-8inch range. Texas rig these with a 3/0 – 5/0 hook, depending on the size of the plastic lure making sure to leave the hook point embedded inside the plastic. Use anywhere from ? to ? ounce bullet sinker depending on weed density and depth. In really think weeds, to help reduce hang ups…peg the sinker right next to the lure with a toothpick. Fish on!
Reply:maybe you should try either using a lighter bullet weight check to make sure your worm is hooked properly make sure you have the right hook size or simply make better casts.
Reply:when im fishing in really weedy lakes all that i use is a ten inch culprit worm rigged with a keeper hook and somtimes will use a trailer hook on the end of it